Green Business
of the Week
October 26, 2008
Crust
The name “Crust” might evoke images of a warm, earthy, bakery-like place with wooden furniture and woven wall hangings. It did for us, and we could not have been farther off the mark. Chicago’s one and only certified-organic restaurant is large and modern, with clean lines, good black-and-white photographs on the wall, and deep red-orange chairs pulled up to formica tables. And the food is very, very good.
Crust is monitored by Indiana Certified Organic, a USDA-accredited organization, to prove that 95 percent of its food and products are derived from organic sources. That’s an impressive accomplishment, and Crust is only the fourth restaurant in the nation to achieve this status.
You may be familiar with Michael Altenberg’s other restaurants, Campagnola in Evanston and Bistro Campagne in Lincoln Square. Both serve up many deliciously organic, but upscale, dishes. Crust goes for a more accessible, less expensive menu. The specialty of the house is flatbread pizza, supplemented by appetizers, salads, and desserts. The drink menu includes organic wines and vodka infused with natural flavors.
It was four in the afternoon when we visited and we decided to pass on the vodka, but the wine was very good. We got two pizzas and an appetizer. The Mexicali Blues–flatbread with wood-smoked shrip, monterey jack, bechamel, pico de gallo, and cilantro–was wonderful. The Pepperonato–flatbread with tomato sauce, pepperoni, heirloom peppers and mozzarella–was more traditional and almost as good. The crust was crisp and delicious.
The service was relaxed, as was the atmosphere. You’ll pay more than at your average pizza place, but a lot less than you would pay for food this good in most restaurants. It’s hard to imagine what it would be like to try to park here later in the evening, especially on a weekend, but there is valet parking available. And the number 70 Division Street bus goes right past the door. Crust also delivers.
For more information, go to www.crustchicago.com.
